Mosquito Supper Club in New Orleans. Photo excerpted from Mosquito Supper Club by Melissa Martin (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2020. Photographs by Denny Culbert.

Authentic Cajun cooking in Uptown New Orleans

The Cajun cuisine of Louisiana is many things. The central Louisiana “Cajun prairie” area is known for its boudin (a spicy sausage typically containing ground pork, rice, onion, parsley, green peppers, and plenty of Cajun spices) and smoked meats, among other inland delicacies.

Coastal South Louisiana Cajun communities, however, are known for their seafood – briny oysters, fat jumbo shrimp, tender soft-shell crab, flavorful redfish. But according to New Orleans chef and restaurateur Melissa Martin’s experience (she grew up in a South Louisiana fishing village) those seafood delights weren’t typically the main course in coastal Cajun homes – they were more like sides, albeit spectacular ones. The main course was, more often than not, a large plate of beans and rice seasoned with salt pork. And lucky for us, just such a plate of Cajun beans and rice is often featured on the menu at Mosquito Supper Club, Martin’s cosy, family-style New Orleans restaurant.

Chasing a flavor…

Housed in a charming, circa 1898 Victorian house on Dryades Street in the Milan neighborhood of Uptown New Orleans, Mosquito Supper Club is a casual, homespun showcase for the exquisite coastal Cajun cooking that Martin learned “by osmosis” from the elder women in her family. Says Martin in her beautifully photographed book of coastal Cajun recipes entitled Mosquito Supper Club: Cajun Recipes From A Disappearing Bayou, “I was inspired by the food that I grew up eating in the tiny fishing village of Chauvin, Louisiana. Women cooked the food and recipes and techniques were passed down as if through an apprenticeship; by watching, learning and doing, and by chasing a flavor. I wanted to share that food with anyone who wanted to take a seat at our tables.” As for chasing a flavor, she explains, “When you have memories from your childhood, of certain tastes and smells, and you try it out and adjust it until it matches your memory and gives you the feeling that those memories bring, and you know it’s right – that’s chasing a flavor.”

Mosquito Supper Club White Beans & Rice. Recipe and photo are excerpted from Mosquito Supper Club by Melissa Martin (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2020. Photographs by Denny Culbert.

White beans the Cajun way

The menu changes daily at Mosquito Supper Club, and it’s always memorable. Guests are seated family style (right next to strangers who soon become friends), at long tables of handcrafted reclaimed wood, as Martin and her staff bring out wine, fresh-baked biscuits, and platters and bowls of authentic coastal Cajun food made with incredibly fresh seafood, meat and produce. Expect to dive into lots of delicious, with menu items like duck gumbo, oyster bisque, crab claws marinated in cane vinegar, fried soft-shell crabs, shrimp jambalaya, stuffed crawfish heads, and, of course, Martin’s Mosquito Supper Club White Beans. Martin uses Camellia Navy Beans and seasons them “the way Cajuns do” with salt pork and both black and cayenne pepper. Martin graciously shares her family’s Monday Red Beans & Rice recipe, too, although it’s not featured on her restaurant’s menu.

“My mother swore by Camellia Beans”

“White beans, red beans, lima beans – beans are a staple in the Cajun pantry,” says Martin. And she adds, “My mother swore by Camellia beans.” From her mother, Martin learned how to measure the quality of a pack of dried beans: “She taught me that when you go to soak beans, if they’re fresh they will wrinkle quickly.”

Prepping for a busy shift at Mosquito Supper Club. Photo is excerpted from Mosquito Supper Club by Melissa Martin (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2020. Photographs by Denny Culbert.

Five-plus courses of authentic Cajun delicious

Mosquito Supper Club offers a five (or more) course meal plus wine and cocktails for dinner several nights a week, plus a Sunday brunch with the added delight of extra baked goods, brunch menu items such as raw oysters and eggs topped with caviar, and being able to bask in the warm sunlight that filters into the charming, slightly rustic dining area of this 19th century former residence. While the menus change, one thing remains the same: each dish is prepared thoughtfully, with the best and freshest ingredients, inspired by generations of home cooking in the coastal fishing villages of South Louisiana.

Salt pork, ready to season a pot of Cajun-style beans. Photo is excerpted from Mosquito Supper Club by Melissa Martin (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2020. Photographs by Denny Culbert.

Frijoles de la Olla

This recipe uses pinto beans, onion, garlic and sea salt to create a versatile base dish that can be enjoyed as is, or used to make Frijoles Charros. Serve it with corn tortillas or fresh bolillos (French bread) to scoop up and absorb the delicious bean broth.

Frijoles Charros

Great northern beans are slow cooked with onion, garlic, pickled jalapeños, hot dogs, chorizo, and bacon for great meaty flavor. This dish is often enjoyed alongside carne asada (grilled and sliced beef).

Frijoles Borrachos

A standard at family gatherings, picnics, and cookouts, Frijoles Borrachos relies on pinto beans, bacon, dark Mexican beer, and a Serrano pepper for its deep flavor.

Bean & Bacon Breakfast Tacos

Scrambled eggs, crispy bacon, tender pinto beans, shredded cheese and chopped avocado fill your choice of grilled flour or corn tortillas, and make a hearty breakfast, brunch, or brinner that’ll leave everyone begging for more.

Pinto Bean Burrito Bowl with Avocado Cilantro Dressing

A burrito bowl is a healthy option, featuring a variety of tastes and textures. And it comes together easily for a tasty, filling lunch or dinner, combining cooked beans with all kinds of colorful accompaniments. Try shredded lettuce or cabbage, chopped cooked chicken, tomatoes, corn, crumbled cheese and a fast & fresh avocado dressing.

Fresh Two-Bean Salsa

With both black and pinto beans, corn, vegetables, cilantro, and lime juice, this salsa can be thrown together easily. For best results, make it at least 12 hours before serving, allowing the flavors to meld in the fridge. Then serve with tortilla chips, as a taco filling, or as a cold or room-temperature topping for grilled fish or chicken.

Easy Refried Beans

Homemade refried beans aren’t actually fried at all, and are incredibly easy to make. This recipe is vegetarian, getting its creaminess from olive oil and veggie broth, and its great flavor from onion, garlic, cumin, chili powder and a few drops of liquid smoke. Top with chopped red onion, cilantro and a little shredded Cheddar, and serve with your favorite chips, or wrapped up in a warm flour tortilla.

Vegetarian Black Bean & Rice Casserole

This colorful, satisfying vegetarian casserole is excellent either on its own with a green salad, or as a side dish to grilled meat, chicken, or seafood. Featuring beans, corn, rice, diced green bell pepper, chopped red onion, cream cheese, and various seasonings, it also makes a great taco filling. Fill warmed tortillas with the mixture, and let everyone top their own tacos with shredded cabbage or lettuce, salsa, cheese, and sour cream.

Smoked Chicken & Black Bean Enchilada Casserole

This is the perfect make-ahead party dish. Faster and easier than rolling and stuffing individual enchiladas, it’s made by creating layers of a chicken and bean mixture, a sour cream and enchilada sauce mixture, corn tortillas, and cheese. Whether you’ve got a big family to feed, or you’re gearing up for a gathering with friends, this one’s a real crowd-pleaser.