As to be expected in New Orleans, the Krewe of Red Beans’ Bean Madness Championship in 2019 was fiercely contested,  bringing red beans and rice to the spotlight of culinary competitions. And, as with any challenge, there can only be one winner. 

The Queen of Red Beans is crowned.

Emily Shaya was crowned the Queen of Red Beans — with her recipe now creating new fans at Miss River, where red beans and rice isn’t just a Monday tradition — it’s celebrated daily. The restaurant, located in the Four Seasons New Orleans Hotel, is part of Pomegranate Hospitality, which owns Saba and Safta’s Kitchen in New Orleans, as well as other restaurants in the U.S. and the Bahamas.

The restaurant’s cuisine is guided by Emily’s husband, Chef Alon Shaya, himself a winner of two James Beard Foundation Awards. But when it comes to red beans and rice at Miss River, which is Chef Alon’s culinary homage to Louisiana cuisine, it’s Emily’s red beans and rice recipe that’s the star.

Studying the art and science of perfect red beans.

So how did this native of Georgia embrace one of the city’s most beloved dishes? Emily’s deep dive into New Orleans food began when she attended Tulane University as an undergraduate and its A.B. Freeman School of Business. Afterwards, while living in Atlanta, she got homesick for New Orleans food. “I missed New Orleans so much that I wanted to bring that piece of it there,” says Emily.

She experimented with cookbook recipes and the instructions on the back of the Camellia Brand Red Kidney Bean bag, brought back ingredients from her trips to New Orleans, and used her creativity to craft her signature dish.

“I decided I really wanted to perfect red beans,” says Emily.

Once she returned to New Orleans for good, her kitchen became a hub for friends and family to gather around simmering pots of beans.

The meat stock is the thing!

The red beans recipe would evolve even more with trips to local grocery stores. “I’d see what kind of interesting meats we could get — sausage or pickled pork … we eventually found pickled turkey necks and experimented with that for a while,” she says. 

A key ingredient became a rich, gelatinous stock made from chicken wings and sometimes pork. “I think the stock is really important,” says Emily. “It makes the beans creamy because the base is not water.” That and simmering the beans all day are “kind of like my secret weapons.”

Another key step for Emily is soaking the beans. “I just think it makes life a little bit easier,” she explains. “You don’t have to watch over the beans as much if you soak them.”

Here’s where to come eat these perfect red beans:

Her red beans recipe was adapted for Miss River, “So it has all the love and care that we do at home. The team here in the kitchen does it every day.” Emily’s red beans and rice are featured in two ways at Miss River: as a side dish, Emily’s Famous Red Beans and Rice, or as an entrée, Emily’s Famous Red Beans and Rice with Buttermilk-fried Chicken.

“We really wanted to pair fried chicken with our red beans and rice,” says Emily. “We’re kind of famous for our fried chicken here. We [also] do a whole chicken that is really a spectacle.”

Why Camellia Brand beans? For Emily, the answer is simple: consistency. “When you are soaking your beans, you can see how clean the water looks. You know you will always get beautiful beans from Camellia.”

Emily, who is a co-founder and director of New Projects at Pomegranate Hospitality, is still making her red beans and rice for family and friends as often as she can.

Whether in her own kitchen or made by the staff at Miss River, each pot carries the same intention: to feed, comfort and create lasting memories.

Emily Shaya’s Famous Red Beans and Rice Recipe

Bring Emily Shaya’s red beans home — a soulful, slow-simmered taste of New Orleans tradition, straight from Miss River’s kitchen.

Courtesy of Emily Shaya | Founder and Director of New Projects, Pomegranate Hospitality (New Orleans: Saba, Saba’s Lounge, Miss River and Chandelier Bar at Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans, Safta’s Table; Denver: Safta, Ceci! Italian Lounge; Bahamas: Silan at Atlantis Paradise Island)

Miss River, Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans, 2 Canal St.; (504) 434-5701, missrivernola.com/; on Instagram. 

If variety is the spice of life, then Chicken’s Kitchen in Gretna could be considered one of its culinary epicenters. So much so that it was named to The New York Times “Restaurant List 2022: 50 Places In America We Are Most Excited About Right Now.”

On the Menu

The menu — colorfully written on a large blackboard on the wall — features daily specials Monday through Friday that include fried chicken, braised beef, half-stuffed Cornish hen, oxtails (the first Tuesday of the month), smothered turkey necks, Five-Star Mac (named for the five cheeses used for it), potato salad, seafood smothered okra, and candied yams, to name just a few. Other options include red beans, white beans, and black-eyed peas with rice dishes.

Then there are the multiple ways you can combine them: a fried pork chop with white beans, cabbage, and candied yams might be your preference, or perhaps red beans with fried chicken, Five-Star Mac, and honey cornbread is more your style.

Each combination offers a unique and delicious flavor profile. (Combine some white beans and rice with the candied yams. Trust us.)

And don’t forget to finish the meal with a sweet treat by Anointed Confections.

Take-Out Plate Lunches

The man behind this culinary cornucopia is restaurant owner Marlon Chukumerije — his nickname is Chicken, hence the restaurant’s name.

Chukumerije’s mother and grandmother taught him to cook, and in 2014, a friend asked him to cater a wedding. Out of this adventure grew a catering business, and when the opportunity arose to open a restaurant in September 2020, he took it.
The menu he created features New Orleans and southern-style dishes that work well as take-out plate lunches.

“The idea was to find things that hold well in the heat, things that could stay long and not
change the quality,” says Chukumerije.

“There are things I would love to add to the menu, but we just can’t,” he adds, stating certain pasta dishes and vegetables don’t work well for take-out, while others do.

Red Beans & Rice, Perfected

One dish he worked hard to perfect was the red beans and rice.

“When we opened, we made red beans four or five different ways,” he said. “It was trial and error.”

“And I landed on this version because I got the most consistent feedback from customers.”

The version Chukumerije and his crew hit on starts with Camellia Red Kidney beans soaked overnight.

Green onions, celery and parsley are added, then Tony Chachere’s, Italian seasoning, onion, garlic powder, and chicken bouillon powder, which he says amplifies the flavors.

When it came to pork, he worked hard to find the right cut and flavor.

“Certain people have pork issues,” he says, noting that ham seasoning, salt pork, and pickled pork (tips, tails, for example) were not popular.

The one ingredient everyone liked was smoked sausage. “That’s the only meat we put in it,” he says.

For the restaurant’s white beans dish, Chukumerije uses Camellia Navy Beans and the same cooking process and ingredients used for the red beans.

As for the blackeye peas, Chukumerije uses scraps from that day’s fried ribs to add flavor.

Red beans are traditionally served on Monday, blackeye peas on Tuesday, and white beans on Wednesday.

A Love of Green Onions

Another unexpected ingredient used in Chicken Kitchen’s bean & rice dishes is green onion. “Something I learned here that I think gives our beans a unique flavor, which most people don’t do, is we finish it off with lots of green onions,” he says. “Right when we are doing the cooking, while it’s still super hot, we put the chopped green onions in there and mix it.

“It elevates it to a whole different level,” he says.

Praise for Chicken’s Kitchen

What Chukumerije is doing is working based on the line of customers outside of the restaurant who know to get there early as food often sells out fast. And, of course, the restaurant’s recognition in the New York Times.

“It’s a gratifying achievement that wouldn’t even be possible without the community support we get on the daily. That’s more special to me,” he says.

Chicken’s Kitchen, 629 Derbigny St., Gretna; Mon.- Fri., 10:30 a.m. – 3:00 p.m., chickens-kitchen.com; on Instagram.

Abita Springs is a quaint village deep in the piney woods of the North Shore of Lake Pontchartrain, about 45 minutes from New Orleans. Once a spa town where New Orleanians came to escape the summer heat and swim in the many local springs, it retains not only its 19th-century architectural charm but also its old-timey general store, right in the town’s CBB (central business block). With an emphasis on local tradition, Artigue’s Abita Market is a family business that serves the little community’s loyal residents, many of whom live in historic Victorian cottages close enough to walk to the store. Customers also include cyclists passing by on the nearby Tammany Trace bike path and day-trippers from New Orleans who come to check out the town’s attractions, including the quirky UCM Museum and the local Abita Beer microbrewery. 

A Small Town with Big Flavor

In addition to the grocery essentials required in any small Louisiana town, like Cajun spices, T-Rey’s local andouille sausage, spicy boiled peanuts and plenty of red beans, lima beans and blackeye peas, Artigue’s also offers a fresh daily specials menu, brought to life by chef Trey Herty. The menu features a rotation of classic Louisiana hot plates and po-boys plus local family recipes like Mom’s Red Beans and Rice with Pickled Meat, T-Rey’s Smoked Boudin, Louisiana Catfish Meuniere and Artigue’s famous Chicken and Smoked Sausage Gumbo. And not to be missed are the side dishes, from tasty Boudin Balls with Pepper Jelly Dipping Sauce to Stewed Green Baby Limas, Baked Yams and Collard Greens.

Artigue’s Red Bean Secrets Revealed

The menu at Artigue’s evolves along with the seasonal produce that’s locally available, while also staying true to New Orleans traditions such as Red Beans and Rice on Mondays. Sometimes the menu is more Cajun and other times it’s more Creole, but at Artigue’s it’s always Louisiana. So how does Artigue’s do red beans? Chef Trey essentially follows his mom’s recipe and adds in a few “chef hacks” along the way. (His mom, Reba, makes the best red beans he’s ever had.) For seasoning meat he uses products he developed – T-Rey’s Specialty Meats Smoked Sausage and Pickled Meat – which customers can also buy in the store. Chef Trey always browns the sausage in a separate pan and deglazes the pan with vegetables to impart a rich umami flavor to his red beans, and he keeps the spice lineup simple and classic: salt, black pepper and cayenne, with garlic added at several different stages of the cooking process and a couple of dashes of Louisiana Hot Sauce when serving. Can’t get much more Louisiana than that!

LSU Dining Executive Chef Laurence Landon, center, leads a cooking class for students.

When he’s not hilariously demonstrating clever ways for students to create quick meals in his comedic cooking series on YouTube entitled “Hack the Hall,” Executive Chef Laurence Landon has another regularly scheduled performance: managing the entirety of Louisiana State University’s Residential Dining operations. He knows how to stir the beans, as they say: the talent and commitment to quality and sustainability of Chef Laurence and his team have resulted in the 459 Commons Dining Hall’s certification by The Green Restaurant Association as 3-Star Green Restaurant. But on this day we found him in the kitchen, literally stirring the beans in a huge, rectangular vat, in anticipation of a busy lunch.

Beans taste like home.

Akin with many a Louisiana restaurant, The 5, as it’s called on campus, typically serves red beans on Mondays – a comforting taste of home for students from Louisiana. “Most students coming from other states aren’t aware of this tradition,” said Chef Laurence. He added that it doesn’t take long for them to learn just how important beans are in the food culture of the region. Chef Laurence also rotates lots of international bean dishes on the menu, like congri (a Cuban beans-and-rice comfort food), curries, falafel made with red beans or white beans, vegetarian bean burgers, and one of his favorite fusion foods – red beans and rice “egg rolls” – delicious dollops of red beans and rice wrapped in a wonton (like an egg roll) and fried. “Our menu is part down-home Southern and part eclectic international,” he said.

LSU’s Executive Chef of Residential Dining Laurence Landon stirs red beans ahead of a busy lunch at the 459 Commons Dining Hall on the LSU campus.

How do you red bean, Chef Laurence?

Chef Laurence makes his red beans – and all the beans on his menu – vegetarian, in order to be inclusive of vegan and vegetarian students, and serves platters of smoky meats and sausages that can be selected by diners as sides. His recipe is “pretty classic,” as he calls it – bay leaf, salt and pepper, cayenne, seasoning trinity – but he also adds “a bit of dried mustard and green hot sauce.” Chef orders his Camellia Red Kidney beans 25-pound sacks, and soaks them overnight on Sunday in anticipation of Monday’s lunch. Soaking them, he said, “quickens their cooking time and helps them cream faster.”

The Red Beans and Rice is served vegetarian, with meats and sausages as optional sides.

Healthy eating is part of the curriculum

Chef Laurence and his talented chefs and kitchen staff are at the forefront of LSU’s balanced lifestyle and healthy eating initiative, which brings eating into the educational sphere. The idea is that while students are at LSU, they’ll not only be studying academics, but will also be exposed to new foods and new ways of thinking about their eating habits, health and wellness. Fresh, local produce is a priority, nutritional values of foods are posted, and new life has been breathed into the dining menus as well as the university’s approach to student living – all of which provides multiple opportunities for that nutritional powerhouse, the bean, to steal the show.

The Competition

Now that Mardi Gras is over, our Red Beans Parade friends have organized their next bean-loving event – an awesome Bean Madness tournament. In this take-off on the annual college basketball March Madness event, 32 restaurants and individual chefs will compete to see who makes the best red beans & rice in New Orleans. Ian McNulty of the New Orleans Advocate has described this event as a “uniquely interactive way to celebrate the humble but vital dish around town, drawing directly on the tastes and preferences of New Orleans people.” And we couldn’t agree more.

For a Good Cause

Running March 1-April 6, 2020, this single-elimination tournament will raise money for multiple nonprofits including Anna’s Place NOLA, which offers after-school and summer camp programs as well as health outreach and a food pantry; Make Music NOLA, a free music-for-social-change program; Electric Girls, which helps girls to develop and strengthen skills in science, technology, engineering and math; Market Umbrella, which assists farmers’ markets and promotes fresh food access in New Orleans; the Southern Rep Theater, which showcases original theatrical voices and performances reflecting Southern heritage; and SoulNOLA, which plants much-needed trees across urban New Orleans. Here at Camellia, we’re thrilled to sponsor the competition.

Donate, Make Predictions & Win!

How can you get in on the action? Donate and make your predictions here. Your donation will go to the non-profits. You also have the ability to sign up to play and create a bracket online. View your bracket anytime, and follow along in the leaderboard section for updates!

The winner of the bracket will receive lots of silly prizes from the Krewe of Red Beans and Camellia Beans.

Taste-Test Schedule

The tournament features pop-up blind-taste tests around New Orleans that’ll take place at corner bars, bookstores, groceries and markets. Here’s the full lineup of tastings, so you can see who’s competing where and when. The experts on the matter – the people of New Orleans – will judge the red beans and ultimately crown a champion.

The “Final Fork”, with the final four competitors, will be held April 4 from 5-8 p.m. at Zony Mash Beer Project and the championship party and silent auction will take place April 6 from 6-9 p.m. at Capulet Bywater.